Concrete Driveway in Tigard, OR | Oregon Concrete Contractor

A concrete driveway is one of the most durable surface investments you can make for a Tigard home — properly installed, it should last 30 or more years with minimal maintenance. Contractors in our network install new concrete driveways and replace failing asphalt or old concrete across Washington County.

Tigard sits along the Tualatin River south of Portland, anchored by the Washington Square retail corridor and Bull Mountain's slightly elevated terrain on the city's western edge, which gives parts of Tigard more natural drainage grade than the flatter valley floor found in some neighboring Washington County communities. The city's residential growth has continued steadily since the postwar decades, layering newer subdivisions onto an established suburban base. Portland Metro's heavy rainfall and clay-influenced soils apply fully here, and Tigard's position along the Tualatin River means some low-lying areas near the water table demand more careful drainage planning than the higher ground around Bull Mountain.

What Goes Into a Quality Driveway

A properly installed concrete driveway in Portland Metro starts with adequate base preparation — grading, compaction, and drainage planning. In Oregon's wet climate, drainage away from the structure is critical. A quality install is poured at minimum 4-inch thickness (5-6 for heavier vehicles), uses mix design appropriate for the climate, finishes with a broom texture for traction, and includes control joints to manage cracking patterns.

Concrete vs. Asphalt in Washington County

In Washington County, both materials work, but concrete has a longer service life (25-40 years vs 15-20 for asphalt) and does not require sealing or resurfacing on the same cycle. The higher initial cost is typically offset by lower maintenance over the life of the surface. Honest comparisons help you make the right choice for your situation — including the cases where concrete is not the right answer:

Asphalt makes sense when the up-front number is the binding constraint, when the driveway is long enough that the cost difference becomes large, or when you need the surface usable within a day or two rather than after a cure period. It needs sealing on a cycle and it will not last as long, but that is a legitimate trade rather than a mistake.
Gravel is the honest answer more often than contractors like to say, particularly on long rural drives where paving any surface is out of proportion to how the property is used. It is the lowest first cost and the highest recurring attention.
Pavers cost more than poured concrete and settle over time, but individual units can be lifted and reset — which in a wet, mossy climate is a real repairability advantage over a monolithic slab that has to be cut out to fix.
Concrete earns its premium when the surface carries real load, when you want 30-plus years without a maintenance cycle, or when appearance and a clean monolithic finish matter. It is also the least forgiving of a bad base, which is why the invisible half of the job decides how long it lasts.

Have Questions?

Serving Tigard and Washington County — written estimates, Oregon-specific methods.

Call (971) 443-1886

This content is reviewed by the Oregon Concrete Contractor editorial team and informed by licensed-contractor sourcing, manufacturer documentation, and established industry standards for concrete contractor. Read our editorial standards.

Current Concrete Driveway Trends

A well-maintained concrete driveway significantly outlasts an unmaintained one
A concrete driveway that's regularly sealed and maintained can last 25-30 years or more, compared to roughly 15-20 years without maintenance — sealing every 2-3 years is the main factor in that gap. (317 Seal / industry concrete-driveway lifespan data, 2026)
More homeowners are weighing long-term repair cost, not just upfront price
Lower-cost surface options often carry higher ongoing maintenance and repair costs over time — a growing number of homeowners and real estate professionals are factoring total cost of ownership into the material decision, not just the initial installation price. (House Digest / concrete driveway trend coverage, 2026)

25-30 yrs

typical lifespan of a well-maintained, regularly sealed concrete driveway

Source: 317 Seal, 2026 concrete driveway lifespan data

2-3 yrs

recommended resealing interval to protect against cracking and weather damage

Source: White Diamond Pressure Washing, 2026 driveway sealing guide

Frequently Asked Questions

How thick should a concrete driveway be?

A standard passenger-vehicle driveway is poured at a minimum of 4 inches. If you regularly park heavier vehicles, RVs, or equipment, 5 to 6 inches with additional reinforcement is the better call. We size the pour to what you actually plan to drive on it.

Is concrete or asphalt better for a driveway in Washington County?

Concrete generally lasts longer — often 25 to 40 years versus 15 to 20 for asphalt — and does not need periodic sealing. Asphalt costs less upfront and can be a reasonable choice on a tighter budget. We walk through the tradeoffs so you can decide based on your timeline and budget, not just the sticker price.

Why does my driveway have cracks even though it is only a few years old?

Early cracking is usually tied to inadequate base compaction, control joints that were spaced too far apart, or a pour that went down in poor weather. In Portland Metro, water infiltration into an already-cracked base makes the problem worse each winter. An on-site assessment determines whether the cause is fixable with repair or points to a base problem that needs a full redo.

How soon can I drive on a new concrete driveway?

Concrete typically reaches enough strength for light foot traffic within a day or two, but we recommend keeping vehicles off a new driveway for about a week and avoiding heavy loads for closer to a month while it continues to cure and gain strength.

Is 4 inches actually thick enough, and does a driveway need rebar or wire mesh?

Four inches is the normal residential standard and it is genuinely adequate for passenger vehicles on a properly prepared base — the base matters more than the extra inch. It stops being adequate the moment the duty changes: an RV, a loaded box truck, a trailer with a concentrated tongue load, or regular equipment traffic calls for 5 to 6 inches. On reinforcement, wire mesh and rebar are not interchangeable. Mesh helps hold a crack tight after it forms; rebar adds real load-carrying capacity and matters most under heavy or point loads; fiber in the mix reduces shrinkage cracking but is not a structural substitute for either. Plenty of sound residential driveways have no rebar at all, which is why its absence is not automatically a red flag — but thickness and reinforcement are also the easiest place for one bid to be quietly cheaper than another, and you cannot see either one after the pour. Ask for both in writing.

When is asphalt or gravel actually the better choice?

When the budget will not stretch to concrete without cutting the base work, gravel or asphalt done properly beats concrete done thin — a 4-inch slab on an inadequate base fails faster than a well-built gravel drive. Asphalt is also the better call when you need the surface in service almost immediately, or on a very long driveway where the cost gap compounds. Gravel is reasonable on rural properties where the drive is functional rather than architectural, and phasing is legitimate too: gravel now with a concrete apron at the garage, concrete later. We would rather tell you concrete is the wrong spend for your situation than sell you a compromised version of it.

Not Sure If You Have a concrete contractor Problem?

Many homeowners aren't sure what they're seeing. We put together a straightforward guide to the warning signs that are worth taking seriously.

See Our Concrete Repair Guide

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